Lost in Isla Negra - May 30
On Monday, I was having a conversation with roommate/new best friend, Jade about traveling. I said how, "it's the the snap decisions that get you into trouble when you are traveling." It's funny how that statement foreshadow the events of Tuesday.
I have wanted to go to Vina del Mar from before I came to Chile. When I was researching language courses, I looked into the University there so was curious about seeing the little seaside resort town where I could've been living. When I spoke to Carolina at Happy House about my plans, she said that Valapairso is much better than Vina del Mar. Since she is a Chilena, I thought she knows best and changed my plans at the last minute. After purchasing my bus ticket to Valapairso, I consulted my Footprint guide and thought that there were some interesting sites there along with 12 funiculars. Plus, it's an UNESCO World Heritage site. It's got to be good.
However, when I got to the bus station in Valapairso two hours later, I didn't have a good feeling. So, I asked bought a ticket to Isla Negra to see another one of Pablo Neruda's houses figuring it would be close. I was wrong. Isla Negra is a one and half hours south of Valapairso. The bus winds through the countryside so it takes a bit longer than if I went a more direct route on the highway. The long bus rides did afford me the opportunity to see more of the Chilean landscapes from shanty towns to vineyards to forests to small housing developments to farms and finally, the beautiful Pacific Ocean. Chile is truly a beautiful country and am at times reminded of British Columbia.
4 hours later, the bus dropped me on the side of the dusty road. Before I got off, I asked the driver where the house was and he pointed ahead. And I walked. Thankfully, there were lots of hints that Neruda was close by. A mural here, a sign there and finally, a collection of artisan stalls. I went down a dirt road to reach the house and was one of only a few tourists milling about. The house is quite quirky and there is a small museum on the grounds.
After wandering around taking pictures of the beach and garden, one of which is my user photo, Marcela, the tour guide greeted me for my English tour. I learned a lot about Neruda who has had a fascinating life. Poet, Nobel-Laureate, Communist, Diplomat, Designer: All-around Renaissance Man. One thing that blew me away was the fact that he was a diplomat at age 23. No wonder he collects so many interesting cultural artifacts like masks from all around the world. His most impressive collection is that of ship heads from all over the world. His houses are always separated into a collection of smaller buildings so he could separate his work from his social life. Looking out from his bedroom at the Pacific Ocean, it's easy to see how the setting at Isla Negra inspired him.ยจ
As it was getting late and the sun was setting, I went back out the dusty road in this one street town and waited for the bus. And I waited and I waited until the point where I thought I was going to be stuck in Isla Negra. Luckily, I saw couple who had boarded my bus from Valapairso. I thought they were Spanish but they were speaking in French. After 45 minutes, I finally struck up a conversation with the tourists.
I said to the girl in the couple, "Je suis Canadienne." Hoping for some connection but people from France don't really feel an allegiance with the Canadians. On second thought, the French only feel an allegiance to themselves. Anyways, a bus to Valapairso finally materialized out of the dark only to pass us by. At this point it is nearly 7 pm and am freaking out. The subway in Santiago stops running at 10:30 pm. I need to get back now. Lots of questions and thoughts run through my head. Would there be another bus to Valapairso? Would it stop? Could I keep up speaking in French? After consulting with the French tourists in my high school french which comes out in emergency situations only, we flagged down a Pullman bus headed to Santiago. The wonderful staff allowed me to hop on without paying extra. Thanks to a more direct route back, I was safely back in Santiago regaling my roommates with my muy loco adventure out to Isla Negra in less than two hours.
I have wanted to go to Vina del Mar from before I came to Chile. When I was researching language courses, I looked into the University there so was curious about seeing the little seaside resort town where I could've been living. When I spoke to Carolina at Happy House about my plans, she said that Valapairso is much better than Vina del Mar. Since she is a Chilena, I thought she knows best and changed my plans at the last minute. After purchasing my bus ticket to Valapairso, I consulted my Footprint guide and thought that there were some interesting sites there along with 12 funiculars. Plus, it's an UNESCO World Heritage site. It's got to be good.
However, when I got to the bus station in Valapairso two hours later, I didn't have a good feeling. So, I asked bought a ticket to Isla Negra to see another one of Pablo Neruda's houses figuring it would be close. I was wrong. Isla Negra is a one and half hours south of Valapairso. The bus winds through the countryside so it takes a bit longer than if I went a more direct route on the highway. The long bus rides did afford me the opportunity to see more of the Chilean landscapes from shanty towns to vineyards to forests to small housing developments to farms and finally, the beautiful Pacific Ocean. Chile is truly a beautiful country and am at times reminded of British Columbia.
4 hours later, the bus dropped me on the side of the dusty road. Before I got off, I asked the driver where the house was and he pointed ahead. And I walked. Thankfully, there were lots of hints that Neruda was close by. A mural here, a sign there and finally, a collection of artisan stalls. I went down a dirt road to reach the house and was one of only a few tourists milling about. The house is quite quirky and there is a small museum on the grounds.
After wandering around taking pictures of the beach and garden, one of which is my user photo, Marcela, the tour guide greeted me for my English tour. I learned a lot about Neruda who has had a fascinating life. Poet, Nobel-Laureate, Communist, Diplomat, Designer: All-around Renaissance Man. One thing that blew me away was the fact that he was a diplomat at age 23. No wonder he collects so many interesting cultural artifacts like masks from all around the world. His most impressive collection is that of ship heads from all over the world. His houses are always separated into a collection of smaller buildings so he could separate his work from his social life. Looking out from his bedroom at the Pacific Ocean, it's easy to see how the setting at Isla Negra inspired him.ยจ
As it was getting late and the sun was setting, I went back out the dusty road in this one street town and waited for the bus. And I waited and I waited until the point where I thought I was going to be stuck in Isla Negra. Luckily, I saw couple who had boarded my bus from Valapairso. I thought they were Spanish but they were speaking in French. After 45 minutes, I finally struck up a conversation with the tourists.
I said to the girl in the couple, "Je suis Canadienne." Hoping for some connection but people from France don't really feel an allegiance with the Canadians. On second thought, the French only feel an allegiance to themselves. Anyways, a bus to Valapairso finally materialized out of the dark only to pass us by. At this point it is nearly 7 pm and am freaking out. The subway in Santiago stops running at 10:30 pm. I need to get back now. Lots of questions and thoughts run through my head. Would there be another bus to Valapairso? Would it stop? Could I keep up speaking in French? After consulting with the French tourists in my high school french which comes out in emergency situations only, we flagged down a Pullman bus headed to Santiago. The wonderful staff allowed me to hop on without paying extra. Thanks to a more direct route back, I was safely back in Santiago regaling my roommates with my muy loco adventure out to Isla Negra in less than two hours.
posted by Susanne M | 6:18 AM
1 Comments:
oh goody you've enabled anonymous posting. cuz i can't for the life of me remember my user name and password.
anyhoo, some points:
1. EVERYWHERE is a UNESCO heritage site :P
2. Am becoming more interested in Pablo Neruda now cuz of your posts.
3. Also in Chile. I didn't know it looked like BC.
4. Glad you got back into civilization in one piece!
Post a Comment
<< Home